Friday, September 11, 2009
Day 39: ?
Another round of where in the world are Mo and Jon.
We headed into the Sierra Nevada mountains today, the highest peaks in Spain. You could just see a bit of snow on the top of a couple of them, which was surprising to see from the desert we were driving through. We arrived in an accient town known for it´s cave dwellings where the first settlers in the area, primitive man, cut caves into the sides of the red clay hills surrounding the valley thousands of years ago. Moorish and Christian settlers expanded the caves centuries ago and turned them into permenant houses. We went to take a look at the caves and were invited by a random woman to take a look inside her cave home. She told us it was carved out by hand over 500 years ago. Today all of the caves have the walls and ceilings covered in a white wash creating a smooth, clean surface. From the valey floor you can just see white spots on the sides of the surrounding hills with small white chimnies poking out. Despite the desert outside, inside the cave houses are a constant 20 degrees.
Tomorrow: Still not sure.
The Pic: These are some of the chiminies that poke out of the top of the hill. Underneath each is a house carved out of the red clay valley wall.
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
Day 38: Calor como los cajones!!!
beach there, but we kinda feel like we gotta keep heading south.
Short drive through the arid Spanish country side. We know we are getting south because we saw our first Arabic signs on the highway. We made it to another beach community called Aguadolce. They say that the national park just north of us here is the hottest and driest place in Europe and since the car thermometer read 42 today, I'm not going to argue. The waves are little rougher here than in Mazarron but the wind is still warm and gentle and the sangria is still sweet.
Just set up our tent, took a long walk on the beach and took in a bit of the small town.
Tomorrow: the Andalucia interior
The pic: the view from our sangria perch north along the Sweetwater coast towards the national park.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Day 37: Still in Mazarron
Mmmmmm yummy
The sangria is rica, the tapas so good, the paella to die for and las churros actually really did almost kill us. Tortillas are really omletes and oh so yummy. The beer is delicious and hits the spot on hot sunny beachy afternoons. Cafe con leche on the beach is the perfect way to start the day! And a stop at the heladeria for gelato a perfect way to end. The food alone is reason enough to come to Spain!
- jgt
Day 36: Mazarron again
Nothing. We did absolutely nothing and it was everything I'd hoped it
could be.
Tomorrow: this place is so nice, I think well stay a while.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Day 35: Mazarron
most beautiful little cove that wasn't in any of our travel books
called Puerto de Mazarron. The campground we stumbled onto is right
across the street from the beach. We we went for a walk on the beach
at sunset and found that the only other person there for 1/2 a mile in
either direction was the gal running the beachside bar. Dos cervezas,
por favor.
Tomorrow: I think we'll stay a while
The pic: knee deep in the 64 degree Mediterranean
Day 35: the holy grail
Someone shoulda told Indiana Jones, the Grail was right here in
Valencia the whole time.
So we got into Valencia last night and since neither of have been
feeling real well lately, we opted for a hotel again. We looked up a
cheap place, but it turned out to be dead in the center of the old
Roman part of the city. Really great architecture dating back
centuries everywhere. Even a bull fighting arena at the end of our
block. Of course now it's a happening hot spot. So we did up the town
a bit. Got too much paella and a too many pitchers if sangria. So
worth it though. Best sangria I've ever had.
Today, we started our quest for the Grail. Where so many before us
have fail, we succeeded!! After pouring through the ancienct texts
and maps (i.e. The Lonely Planet guide) we deduced the most likely
location for the final resting place of the Grail. It was marked
"Cuppa de Christo" on the map, so it wasn't really that hard. We
followed the crowds down to the Santa Maria church (just between
Starbucks and McDonalds) we found the Grail. Ok, so we couldn't
actually see it, but we found the church, and since it is Sunday, we
found a lot of believers here too. I guess we just have to have faith
that it was in there.
Tmorrow: ?
The pic: the church tower that houses the Grail
Day 34: ?
a small detour to check our the river delta. Turned out to be an
amzing find. When we got to the end of the river we found an empty
beach that stretched for miles in both directions surrounded by acres
and acres of shallow farm land with thousands and thousands of birds
nesting. Really an amazing stumble
From there we headed south again to a town that is the birthplace of
paella and also the home of The Holy Grail. Thea right, THE Grail.
Where are we?
Tomorrow: the quest for the Grail
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Day 33: Catalan
principality, depending on which book you read. We have come back here.
We crossed the border heading south on the only road that exits
Andorra to the south. In Spain we first stopped in the provicial
capital of Catalunya, Lleida. While there we toured the Seu Vella, the
ruins of a 12th century Catedral that sits high above the town.
From Lleida we headed towards the coast where found a luxury
campground a stones from the beach in a small town called Cabrils.
Hopefully tomorrow we'll have the breakdown of the wine and local
cusine.
Tomorrow: more o Spain
The pic: the Sue Vella in Lleida
Friday, September 4, 2009
Things I learned about France
Bread with every meal is unavoidable.
What bicycles are in Denmark, scooters are in France. Everyone has
one. One diffence was that they pass on the right and left in traffic
on single lane roads. They buzz like gnats around the car.
Paris really might be the most romantic city.
It is possible to live on wine and cheese alone.
Every small town and big city has an abbey or a church or citadell or
castle or cathedral with an amzaing history dating back to the 12th
century.
Cote d'Azure is both as beautiful and as expensive as they say it is.
Mediterranean really is as blue as it is in photos, and yet no photo
does it justice.
The terrain is as varied as it is in California. One minute you are
driving through a lush green valley, then you go over a little mountin
pass and it's dusty and dry. Go over another pass and you see marshes
and smell the sea air.
There is something in the south of France, as yet to be determined,
that does not agree with, nay, is diamtrically opposed to Mo's
constitution.
"Salut" is how we toasted in France.
- jgt
Things I learned about Germany
with friends whose traditions hail from Holland and Turkey.
What I did learn was that Hamburg is a bustling metropolis.
Super Dickman's Chocolate Kisses (marshmellow surrounded by chocolate)
have another far, far less politically correct name. Nonetheless,
taste delicious in a breakfast sandwich.
Do not engage in drinking contests here. You will lose.
"Kudichichave" is how you toast in Malayalam. Our new friend Matthew
at Birsen and Marks party
- jgt
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Day 32: l'engolasters
that time on a hike through the mountains. We visited the tourists
office in the town of Canillo and the woman there gave us some ideas
on a hike we should do. We packed a few supplies, found the trailhead
near the center of a town called Encamp, and headed out.
Our hike peaked at a lake that serves water to the towns below, Lake
Engolasters. Gorgeous views of the entire valley We spent the day
napping, picnicing and reading on the shores.
Tomorrow: Andorra de Vella
The pic: a view from the dam at one end of Lake Engolasters
Day 31: Andorra
driven. As crooked as I could imagine, single lane, and with sheer
cliffs over the edge for most of it. White knucked, we made it to the
top of the Pyranees!
We haven't much time to explore yet, but the views are so incredible,
I think we may stay an extra day and do some hiking.
Day 31: leaving France
villages called Villefranche. You park on one side if the river and
walk over where the drawbridge used to be. The entire town is guarded
by high walls and ramparts. We just strolled the streets for a
while, watched a potter throw some pottery, grabbed some lunch.
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Day 30: Lazy
started driving. Road tripping without any real destination. We drove
south along the coast until we just felt like stopping. After 5 nights
sleeping on the ground, and both of us slightly under the weather, we
found a a roadside motel somewhere in the Muscat region. If either of
were feeling better, we'd be sampling some of the wine.
I think the updates from here out will likely be more tame. We are
done with the real tourist site seeing stuff and are slowing down. The
plan is that we are going to spend more time on the beach and less
time in the car.
Tomorrow: who knows
Day 29: Saint Cyr s/ mer
campsite to the beach and watched the sun rise over Saint Marie sur Mer.
After a bit of breakfast we made the relatively short drive from Saint
Marie to Saint Cyr and Cassis. A pair of beautiful little beach towns.
Geographical trivia for the day: in our travels today we drove
through the oldest town in France, first settled 2600 years ago.
While there we took pictures of an island on which stands the chateau
where Alexandre Dumas imprisoned the Count of Monte Cristo.
Day 28: The Sea
We found a fantastic campground in Saint Marie sur la Mer that is
nestled where the Rhone river meets the sea.
We decided to go for a swim in the ocean so we walked down to the
beach. We were surprised to find that it was a topless beach. I'm not
saying who, but one of us laid in the sun topless like the locals for
the afternoon.
The we got some dinner and another bottle of wine, spread out a
blanket in the most perfect spot on the beach and watched the sun go
down.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Day 28: le Baux
10th century citadel, this town doesn't allow any cars. So you have to
park outside of town and walk in. Tiny cobble stone streets create a
maze lined with little shops that lead up to the castle. Really glad
weren't too lazy to make the walk.
Day 28: ??
Took a walk in a fantastic, classic looking little French village
today. The town has created "the Walk of Van Gough", recreating a
number of his works along a marked path. This is the town in which he
painted over 100 masterpieces while he was in the alsylum.
It also happens to be the birthplace of Nostrodamus.
Day 27: ?
Today we visted the papal palace. The seat of catholic power from 1309
to 1377.
If that's not enough these lyrics may help: "Sur la Pont d'________.
Ont nous danson, ont nous danson"
(pardon my French spelling)
Tomorrow: the mediterranean sea
The pic: ?
Day 27: Chateau de Rocher
Chateau de Rocher. It was used as a stronghold for both the French and
English during the hundred years war and sits just on the edge of the
Bouchon de Rhone.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Day 26: Saint Eloy Les Mines
dark, but that's our tent centerframe on the far shore of the lake.
Day 26: Loire
We made it as far as Blois for dinner. It was getting dark so we
starting looking for a place to stay. Found a great campsite in Onzain.
Had a real easy day today. No real tourist sites. Today just we woke
eay and made great drive through Loire Valley along the river stopping
at a few beautiful chateaus along the way.
This evening we found our next campsite on the shores of beautiful
lake in Saint Eloy Les Mines.
Tomorrow: Provence? (if we can)
The pic: Domaines Haute des Loire, one of the Chateaus we stopped by
today.
Day 24: Louvre
Back by popular demand... Mo! (You'll have to excuse me I'm not at my best, I've been gone for a month, I've been drunk since I've left).. (for any Canadians that understand the referance... ) We left the left 1 month ago today!
So, I'm really not good at the blogging thing but here is a pic of Jon and I at the Louvre in front of my final art history exam (which I aced)! 1 point for anyone who can anyone identify that painting. 2 points if you can interpret its significance.
Spent the morning at la Louvre and although we could have spent the rest of the week there, our feet and backs gave out and we opted for a long drawn out cheese and wine afternoon on a patio. The rest if the day followed with a similar hectic schedual of sitting in a park (Jardine de Luxemburg), eating gelato and wandering through streets around the Latin Quarter (we did see the Pantheon through our wanders).
Got back to the hotel and upgraded our room to one with a balcony so we opened up another bottle of wine and enjoyed the evening. We did manage to have another drink at another patio this evening before finishing another bottle of wine on the balcony looking over Montmartre while we tried to look into what to do with ourselves for the next month. Jon managed to rent a car for a good price for the next 2.5 weeks, so off we go tomorrow!
Tomorrow: Versaille
The pic: let's here your guesses.
Day 25: hall of mirrors
at Versaille. They signed some peace treaty after WWI in this room.
Can't remember the name of it ;)
We could go on for days on how beautiful the fountains and the mazes
of gardens were. The scope of this place is Incredible.
One really interesting display was in the Hall of Peace. The walls
were covered with paintings showing the effects of war during the
reign of Louis the IV. Below each painting was a photo of a more
recent event from the last century demonstrating how each scene
depicted on the walls has been repeated in other wars throughout
history. For example, a huge painting showed a woman begging for the
life of her husband to Napolean and under neath would be a photo
depicting something similar from WW II, or a giant painting of
soldiers invading by sea during battle, and below a photo from the
shores of the battle of Normandy. Very interesting and masterfully
done. Truly thought provoking.
Tomorrow: Loire Valley
Day 25: Versaille
her. Unfortunately they were not running at the time of this pic. They
didn't fire em up til later in the day.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Day 23: Tour de Eiffel
Tomorrow: The Louvre
Day 23: L'Arc
Jon at Arc de Triomphe
Kind of an interesting day to be at the Arc. Today is the anniversary of the liberation of Paris by the Allied forces during WWII. There were a bunch of WWII vets laying wreaths next to the eternal flame at the tomb of the unknown soldier underneath the Arc.
Day 23: Notre Dame
Here are three quick pics.
Jon at Notre Dame.
One quick story today though was bumping into Nicolas Sarkozy. As we were walking up to the Cathedral, we could see all the streets in front of the neqrby City Hall being cordoned off, a hundred police in the area, and a croud gathering. We walked up just in time to see the President coming out to get in his motorcade. Before he took off, he got out and shook hands with 10 or 20 people real quick about 15 feet away. Then off he went and one by one each of the other dignitaries took off. Out of the dozens of pics I snapped, only 1 came out.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Day 22: Paris
nearly two hours). We caught the metro over to Montmartre section of
town where our hotel is. Montmartre is the artist district of Paris,
where Picaso, Dali, Van Gough, Renoir, Dagas all lived. The movie
"Amelie" was also filmed here. Nearby, however is Pagalle, really
the red light district, sex shops and shows a plenty. The Moulin Rouge
and all. Still, it is a nice hotel and there are plenty of upscale
shops, bakeries and cafes on every corner.
We strolled the streets today. Visted the largest cemetary in Paris
where Alexander Dumas rests. And Ampere and Fourier for you EE nerds.
Then we strolled up L'eglise Sacre-Coeur , an old church that sits
on the highest point in Paris. From there you can just about
everything in Paris.
For dinner we, of course, got ourselves a baguette, cheese and a
bottle of French wine, sat on our balcony and watched the sun go down.
Tomorrow: Boulangeries et Les Rues de Paris
The pic: Mo and I from Sacre-Coeur with Paris behind.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Day 21: nuther day Luhdorf
while recovering from the drinking contests. Napped. Re packed the
back packs. Took a little walk. Really just enjoyed our time with
Birsen and Mark, our wonderful and generous hosts.
Right now it is about 10:30 pm and our bus is just leaving for Paris.
Tomorrow: Paris
The pic: probably can't tell, but this at the Hamburg ZOB (central
bus station) and that's Mo in center frame in seat number 1 on the bus.
Day 20: Winsen/Luhe Luhdorf
Tomorrow: An 11 hour bus ride to Paris!
The Pic: Not a good pic, low light at sun set. This is in Birsen and Mark's back yard. They setup 5 long tables in a row for everyone and we ate and drank all night. Really felt like we we're lucky to take part in this authentic German experience.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Day 19: downtown Hamburg
Day 19: Hamburg station
Things about Denmark
The whole country just seems more civilized and advanced. Polite. Healthy food options everywhere. People just enjoying the sunshine and being outdoors or getting exercise, a slower pace to things.
Train system is comfy and covenient and easy to figure out.
They make their hot dogs just like Iceland except with pickles.
Delicious.
Smerple is one of the greatest inventions.
"skoal" is how you toast in Danish over a Carlsburg.
- jgt
Day 19: and were off
will chage trains to the German track. Be in Hamburg in about 5 hours.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Day 18: cycling
butter, cheese and jam. Lisbeth had the day off and walked us around the old part of the city. Really neat section of Fredericia guarded on one side by the ocean and on the other they built a huge moat with an enormous natural wall of earth about 4 stories tall.
After walking along the moat (now a public park) for a while this led
us to the beach where we relaxed in the sun for a while watch giant
red jelly fish float by.
On the way back we stopped and picked up some Smørrebrød, prounced "smerple". A very delicious, very Danish lunch.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sm%C3%B8rrebr%C3%B8d
In the afternoon Mo and I had big plans to bike down the coast.
Borrowed some bikes, got our supplies together, water, mapped our route. Took a few cranks and decided that the tire needed some air.
Pshhhhhhhhhhhhh. Valve stem broke in half. Mo used one of little
Antons picture books to find the word for "bicycle", used that to find
a place to get a tube downtown. Short walk and much frustration later, got the tire changed.
Well that little adventure burned about 2 hours of our cycling time.
We did a shorter route instead that took us out by the ocean and back.
Still really nice.
For dinner we ordered pizza for our gracious hosts and watched
Copenhagen beat Berlin in football.
Tomorrow: Germany
The pic: us biking along a path near the ocean
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Day 17: Copenhagen
Soren live two hours from here. But, spur of the moment decision last
night put us on a train early this morning. We are realy glad we did.
Spent a relaxing day touring the city, the harbour, down to see The
Little Mermaid, window shopping down a beautiful little cobblestone
street, and just napping in the park. Wrapping up the day now with a
cappuccino at a side walk cafe before we catch the train back to
Fredericia.
A great day!
Tomorrow: cycling
The pic: Us at the harbourside Little Mermaid statue.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Day 16: Lego Land


Today Lisbeth took Mo and I with her 2 year old son Anton to one of his favorite places. Lego Land!!!
It's only a few towns over and huge attraction here. For the most part it's a regular theme park, rides and ice creme and all. The real interesting part are the miniatures made entirely out of legos. Extremely acurate miniature versions of Copenhagen, Dusseldorf, Beverly Hills, JFK Space Center, Norway, Mount Rushmore.
They had two places sculpted from Scotland. One was the Eilean Donan Castle that we camped at on our way to Skye. The other Scottish miniature was the tiny fishing called Crail! In the town was the very hotel we stayed in.
In the evening we hung out at Lisbeth, Sorens and Antons. Another wonderful home cooked meal. Had a few beers with Soren and watched the Copenhagen football team beat Cypress in the Euro Cup.
Tomorrow: Copenhagen
The pic: the Lego version of The Eilean Donan Castle and the real one.
Eilean Donan Castle
Day 16: first full DK day
danish. Lisbeth picked out 4 or 5 different kinds and 4 or 5 different
kinds of bread for us. My favorite was the "Baker's Bad Eye"
Day 15: Fredericia DK

Here we are. Day 15, country 4. We didn't get a chance to do much today. Morgan's friend Lisbeth picked us up at the airport in Billund, Denmark at around 3:00pm. We had a nice quite evening with Lisbeth and her husband Soeren at their house in Fredericia. Lisbeth and Morgan put together a loverly meal and we spent the evening with some nice Danish beer and the girls got to recall stories of their adventures in Honduras.
Tomorrow: Lego Land
The Pic: Mo and Lisbeth at the airport.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Things I've Learned about Scotland
everywhere.
Be careful where you pee in the Glenlivet National Park. Stinging
nettle lurks.
Bathrooms: they are big fans of the hand dryer. Never once saw a
paper towel dispenser. All the sinks have one spout for hot and
another for cold.
You are constantly under surveilance. Remote cameras are everwhere. Every bar, every elevator, every taxi cab.
No tipping! unfortunatly we didn't find out until the last day that tipping is not expected. Service really has to go above and beyond to be warrented. Explains why every bartender was so suprised after each beer.
The people are incredibally helpful. Everytime we looked lost on a
corner with a map in hand, invariably someone would pass by and offer
to help.
Driving here is insane. The cities are less leathal because the
streets are wider and traffic keeps the speed down. On the narrow,
super winding highland roads, the average speed is about 75. Logging
trucks and tour buses make every corner an adventure. Nearly Stephen
Connor'd the car more than once.
Not every town has a pharmacy, but every town has at least 3 pubs.
The scotch whiskey flavors are as diverse as the landscape of
Scotland. We sampled from the harbors on Skye to the highlands of
Grantown to the Lowlands of Edinburgh. MacCallan, Talisker, Lagavulin,
Dalwhinney, Clynelish, Cragganmore, Cragganmore Reverve, Oban, Oban
Reserve, Singleton, and Glenkinchie. Hard to pick a favorite.
The rain seems to come every day. But it also seems to clear up each
afternoon. When the sun does come out, Scotland gets quite warm.
This time of year, dusk is about 10:30pm.
Slangavar! That's the Celtic toast to "good health".
August is a great time to be in Edinburgh. The festival alone was
worth the trip. They launch fireworks every hour with a finally over
the castle at midnight.
- jgt
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Day 14: Edinburgh
old coblestone streets of Edinburgh. At times it felt like we could
turn a corner and walk right into Gringots. (I got that Harry Potter
reference from my nerd wife ;).
In our scotch addled state we had a hankering for some fish and chips.
Unfortunately we also got the breaded and deep fried sausage.
Today we had an easy day. Started out with a stroll through the
oldest hallowed ground in Edinburgh. We were called to the church by
bells like weve never heard before. So beautiful and in such a
beautiful place that they litterally brought tears to the eye.
Then we wandered over to the festival. Tents set up everywhere. Street
performers on every corner. I actually got called up help participate
in a juggling/acrobat/comedy act.
Took a tour of The Scotch Experience on The Royal Mile. Basically the
Disney version of a distillery tour. The tour did end, however, in the
largest collection of scotch in the world though. Over 3000 individual
unique bottles. So that was cool.
Finished up with our last Scottish pub and a couple of pints of John
Smith.
Tomorrow: Denmark
The pic: this a statue of the Greyfriars Bobby. The Greyfriars, from
what I gather, were friars that resided at a church nearby. The
caretaker of the church had a Scottish terrier named Bobby. Upon the
caretakers death he was burrowed at the church he took care of. The
loyal dog would come to the burial site everyday for 14 years, on his
own, and lay at the site of his deceased master. Upon his death, Bobby
too was buried near his master and a statue was erected to his
dedication.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Day 13: the view
view staight out the hotel window. That's the castle on the cliff
overlooking the bay.
Novotel hotel, Luariston Place.
Day 13: Edinburgh
in Crail. People there were so friendly and helpful and even ended up
doing our laundy for us for nothing. We felt warm, dry and rejuvinated
and headed down to Edinburgh. We stopped at Arberdour castle along the
way and toured the castle dated from the 1200's deciding that it was
easily the best cost value tour (free) to date.
We headed into Edinburgh in time for the all the roads to be closed
down for the Edinburgh festival. With nowhere to stay, and a map that
seemed to from another town, and multiple closed roads and detours, we
not only ended up (with major effort) to find the car rental place to
drop off the car, but also found an amazing deal on a hotel by calling
the lowest budget hotel we could find. Since they had no room at the
1 star hotel, they decided to help us out and pull a few strings and
got us in at a very upscale hotel for the same price of 99 pounds. We
arrived at the hotel to find that we had been upgraded again to the
best room in the place that would regularly go for 316 pounds! (I
think thats about $425/night). How lucky are we? We are booked for 2
nights in a posh dead center downtown Edinburgh hotel with an amazing
view of the castle and walking distance from the craziness of the
goings on of the festivals.
Craig you'd be proud of us and the deal we got here.
Seems as though all of Scotland is roaming the streets for the once
yearly festival. So, tonight we are joining the locals, taking in the
town, pub crawling through Edinburgh.
Tomorrow: Edinburgh festivals, the castle and maybe the dungeon.
The pic: A view of Edinburgh castle as seen from the farmers market we
stopped at along the way.
Day 12: St Andrews and Crail
that it hadn't rained on us.
The rain free didn't last though. By 11:00 it was on again. No matter.
We have a car and are road tripping.
We headed south from Alyth towards Glamis to check out Glamis Castle.
Easily the biggest we've seen so far and in the best shape. We didn't
take the tour but the exterior was imposimg and grounds were immaculate.
From Glamis we headed towards St Andrews. We stopped at 'The Home of
Golf' and pulled into the pro shop. Snapped some pics of the course
and Swilton Bridge from the viewing deck of the restaurant. We were
soggy and wearing at least two day old clothes, so, being a little
stale for this crowd, we scooted before we were asked to leave.
Lunch at the obligatory pub and then down to St Andrews Cathedral and
university. Snapped a few pics there. The rain was still coming down
pretty hard, and since the roof of the cathedral was destroyed a few
centuries ago providing little protection we decided to head out.
We were going to head as far south as Edinburgh, but we came across a
quaint little fishing village called Crail. Crail has a nice little 5
room hotel called The Golf Hotel with little pub in front. Tradition
has it that a pub has stood on this spot since the 14th century.
Tomorrow: Edinburgh
The pic: The St Andrews Cathedral ruins.














































