Day 45: spices and street urchins

Today we wanted to relax a bit. We had petit dejourne in a cafe
overlooking the market place. Then we checked around for a more cost
effective place to stay. After wandering down a few back alleys and
stopping into a few riads, we found an only slightly less comfortable
place for 1/5th the price ($12 / night). Apparently being in the Lonely Planet guide
allows you to raise you rates.

Next we went for massages at spas called hammams. Mo went for the full
pull. Massage, savon noir scrub, bathing, the works. I just got the
massage. I had no idea how sore I was, I think sleeping on the ground
most of this trip has caught up with me.

After massages we tried to go Rock the Kasbah. Ok, 'Rock' might be an
overstatement. We tried to go walk the Kasbah where the royal palce is
located. On the way we bumped into a police officer directing traffic.
He told us that that part of town was closed after 3:00 during
Ramadan. So he just leaves his traffic duties to walk us about 5
minutes away into the Jewish Quarter to a spice vendor. Mo was excited
to go to see the spice vendor as it was one thing that shes been
looking forward to in Morocco. I was a little skeptical, not really
being in the market for paprika or saffron or any thing, but after
talking with the guy for 5 minutes, I was really glad we came in.
Really knowledgable guy, more like a pharmacist than a street vendor.
The had herbs and spices for every type of cooking and herbs and
spices for anything that ails you. Bronchitis, migraines,
aphrodisiacs, anything.

From the Jewish Quarter, we walked along the busy streets and
stumbled into a French hotel. Since it is a European hotel, we are
able to get a beer here unlike the restaurants in the Medina where
alcohol is strictly forbidden.

After a couple of pops, feeling really good about our day, we headed
back to the square where we had a slightly unpleasant expirience. Mo
was in the middle of making a good deal on some dried apricots, when
she was approached by yet another 14 year old girl offering henna
tattoo. Mo brushed her off but the girl was insistant. The girl
grabbed Mos hand and started drawing on it anyway dispite the protests
while saying "It's free. It's free" as if this was a free sample. The
girl finished the scribbles and Mo tried to tip the girl 10dh ($1) for
it but the girl was now demanding 250dh. Mo refused to pay and still
tried to give the girl the dollar and get away, but the girl was
making a scene now grabbing her arm and yelling "You pay me! You got
tattoo, now you pay me!". Took both of us to break her grip on Mo and
get away. Affraid that she would call someone or something, we called
it a night and headed back to our hotel. In the end, nothing came of
it, but put a bit of a damper on our day.

Tomorrow: nothing

The pic: Cumin, saffron, paprika, Moroccan curry, fish curry,
sandlewood...