Day 59: thanks

Oh yeah. One more thing. Thanks to everyone that followed us on our
blog, left comments for us to read at night and let us feel a little
closer to home.

- jgt and mbm

Day 59: heading home

Well, it's been a whirlwind trip. 12 countries (if you count the hour
we were in Belgium). Loved them all and learned a lot about each.

The mullet is alive and well in Spain, only there it is dreadlocked.

We had gelado in every country. The best was from an Italian immigrant
named Santini in Cascais Portugal.

Iceland isn't as cold as they would have you believe.

Denmark was still the most civilized country we explorered.

Guinness does taste just a little bit better in Ireland.

Morocco was a feast for the senses.

Scotland seems to be hardest for us to sum up. It was wet. The
mountains were stunning. The scotch was delicious. The pilgramages to
Skye and Grantown were profound.

Beers around the world.

Here's a list of all the beer we had around the world.

Iceland: Viking, Polar
England: Guiness Red
Scotland: Tennants, John Smith, McEwans
Denmark: Carlsberg
Germany: Erdinger
France: Leffe, Kronenbourg 1664
Andorra: Heiniken (no brweries? Really?)
Spain: San Migel, Estrella, Cruzcampo, Mahou
Morocco: Flag Normale, Flag Special
Portugal: Sagre Super Bock, Sagre Tulipa, Caneca
Ireland: Guinness and smithwicks.

- jgt

Day 58: mmm Guinness

Day 58: The Comet

We have a 18 hour layover in Dublin. What are you gonna do with 18
hours in Dublin? Pub Crawl.

We got a b&b near the airport called Pairc na Bhfuiseog and just
wandered the streets of Dublin looking for Guinness. Found a few
lovely, classic looking Irish pubs and what pub crawl would be
complete without a stop at The Comet.

Day 57: back in Lisbon

Didn't do much at all today. Got up early enjoyed a last day in
Peniche. Headed south a bit melancholy that this our last in Portugal.

We checked into a fancy hotel to just hole up til tomorrow when we hop
a plane starting our trip back to CA. We did still manage to have a
great day driving down the coast, having gelado and capping it off
with movies on the hotel and Poetuguese vinho.

So, we really don't have a pic for today.

Day 56: c'mon, seriously!

The sea air has stripped away most of the yellow paint from this arch,
in which a bell used to be housed atop the fort.

I don't know who the little girl in the green dress is. She ran into
frame trying to get through the door just as I was snapping.

C'mon. Seriously. Not bad for a camera phone, right?

Day 56: Forteleza

A view from atop the 15th century fort guarding the city of Pineche.
This fort was used as a prison up until 1974 when there was a coup and
the dictator was thrown out.

Day 56: geocaching

So, this blog may only make sense to other nerds out there....

I've been carrying a travelbug with me for about 10000 miles now.
Well, next to last day, on the edge of the world looking over the
Cliffs of Insanity seemed like a good place to drop off the bug.

Credit where credit is due, Mo actually spotted the geocache.

For the non-nerds out there: http://www.geocaching.com

Day 55: mo

Mo watching the sun go down in Peniche.

Day 55: sundown

Sundown from a spot near the campsite in Peniche.

Day 55: gone fishing

A fisherman stands below the promontory point in Peniche.

Day 55: a view from atop the walls

Atop the Obidos castle walls.

Day 55: Obidos

A few more shots from our drive further up the Portuguese coast.

This one was taken in the town of Obidos. Another town that doesn't
allow cars as it is surrounded by fortified walls. This is the castle
at one end that has been converted into a state run pensão (b&b).

Things about Morocco

Personal space - Moroccan personal space is a lot closer with one
another than ours. Shaking hands with strangers just to say hello.
Hugging and holding hands with friends is common. When two strangers
are in a heated argument (as in a traffic accident) laying hands on
the other person is not the immediate precursor to a physical fight.
Hands wave and point inches in front eachothers faces throught entire
conversations.

Alibaba - I don't really know the story, but apparently being referred
to as Ali Baba is a compliment. Half the vendors try to butter me up
and lure me in calling me this.

Vendors - few vendors employ good business practices ("come in, browse
around. Like what you see? Tell your friends"). Most use heavy handed
tactics (setting outrageous prices, overcharging tourists, changing
the price, grabbing you and dragging you into their store)

Mopeds - the alleys that lead everywhere are no more than 15 feet wide
and the sides are crowded with street vendors. Still mopeds slalom
between pedestrians at frightning speeds.

Henna ladies - always seems to be fighting with one another. Yelling,
arms flailing, throwing stools around.

Ramadan - influences every aspect here at this time of year. The Souks
absolutely empty for 20 minutes in the evening for prayer and eating.
Certain restaurants only serve drinks during prayer time, and almost
noone serves alchohol.

Mint tea - very common. In most cases overly sweet. Always poured in
an elaborate fashion by raising the spouted teapot a foot above the
glass.

Water on the street - most alleys will have filthy water pooled in the
center at some point. It's probably not pee. Throughout the day
vendors will wash down the area infront of their store to keep the
dust down.

Being neighborly - being cynical, we assume that everyone that offers
you assistance is out to sell you something. Every place in the world
is the same: there are nice people and there are villans in every part
of the world. Sometimes people who offer assistance are just nice
people.

Souks - they sell everything under the sun and will use every tactic
to get you to come in. Streets are insanely crowded, but interestingly
we never felt anything close to threatened.

You get used to the constant flies landing on your ankles when you
stop moving.

Sleeper train to Marrakech is comfy and little exotic.

Labess (pardon my spelling) is how you toast in Arabic.

- jgt

Day 54: Sunset in Ericeria

Sunset over the ocean from our tent.

Day 54: Sunset in Ericeria

Sunset over the ocean from our campground.....

Day 54: Palácio da Pena

A palace built high in the mountains overlooking the town of Sintra.

Day 54: Cabo de Roca

Day 54: go west my son

A few shots from our drive up the Portuguese coast today.

Here's Mo at the westernmost point on continental Europe, Cabo de Roca.

Day 53: Pedro or Maximilian?

Nuther day of just wandering the streets of Lisbon cafe hopping. Bought some really nice Dão, Quinta de São Simão da Aguieira, at a great liquor/olive oil shop.

Took this shot down of the wide concorses that run down to the southern gateway to the city. Down Rua de Agusta with the statue of either the King of Portugal or the Emperor of Mexico, depending on who you ask, in the background.

Day 52: ?

Where in the world are Mo and Jon?

Here Mo is storming a castle built in the 5th century by the
Visgoths. Where the famous Portuguese knight Martim Moniz lost his
life when he prevented the defending Moors from shutting the gate
aiding Afonso Henriques in his attack.

Day 52: View of the Tagus

Day 51: touring Lisbon

As luck would have it, our first full day in Lisbon was on National
Mobility Day. Doesn't really mean that much to us either, except that
the metro is free all day!!! Woot!! So we made full use of it making
our way to various sections of town and checking out some of the
neighborhoods, doing some shopping, eating and drinking.

So far we both really love Lisbon. Seems so modern and clean and
refined and easy to get around. Everything seems to have just slowed
down. We think the slower pace has something to do with lack of
scooters or mopeds buzzing around you. They like their cable cars
too. This shot kinda reminded me of San Francisco.

Tomorrow: city sight seeing

Day 50: view from the hotel

View from the first Lisbon hotel.

Day 50: travel day

Didn't get much sight seeing or ass sitting done today. Breakfast,
taxi to the Marrakesh airport, flight to Madrid, 7 hour layover,
nuther flight to Lisbon, taxi to hotel took up pretty much our whole
day.

Don't have much in the way of pics to upload so I'll just put up a
view from our hotel in Marrakesh and then one from our hotel in
Lisbon. Talk about a change of scenery.

Day 49: Jemaa El Fna

Jemaa El Fna coming to life.

Day 49: Mosque sunset

Couple more shots from our last night in Marrakech.

Day 49: Dar Essalam

Day 49: The Man Who Ate Too Much

We have been great stunblers this trip in every country we seems to
stumble across a little gem that we hadn't read about in any book.
Marrakech is no exception.

We wanted to dress in our "finest" and go out for a last hurah here
for dinner.
We stopped into a restuarant a stones throw down one of the dark
little alleys near our hotel and found Dar Essalam. We had what seemed
like and endless meal of Olives, Moroccaine salads and Kefta Tagine.
While we ate a trio played some traditional Moroccan music and a gal
danced around the room balancing a tray of lit candles on her head.
Later a belly dance came out to entertaine us.

Almost as a side note, this also the restaurant that James Stewart and
Dorris Day ate at in the Alfred Hitchcock classic "The Man Who Knew
Too Much"!

Tomorrow: Portugal

Day 48: vendors

And one of my worst nightmares. Bees swarming over these honey buns.

Day 48: vendors

Ceramic urns and pottery vendor....

Day 48: vendors

Enter the souks at 6:30 and there are 100k people squeezed in either
buying or selling. At 7:00pm the daily fast is over and within
minutes the place turns into a ghost town. 100 or so Europeans are
all that are left.

With the place empty, I was able to take a couple of random shots of
some the street vendors in the souks.

Moroccan cakes, more like cookies. The fig newtons are better than
anything Nabisco makes.

Day 48: stray kittens are everywhere

Here's one guarding one of the royal tombs.

Day 48: Saadian tombs

Just past the grand Bab Aganou gate to the city and the Kasbah Mosque,
we visited the Saadian Tombs where 66 of the royal family are burried.

Day 48: under Badii Palace

A view down one of corridors that run underneath the palace ruins.

Day 48: Badii Palace

Ok, today we did get to rock the Kasbah a bit. Took a tour of the
remains of the Royal Palace. Upon it's completion in the 15th century,
was said to be one of the most magnificent palaces ever constructed.
Was only occupied for 100 years before being destroyed by another
conquering sultan.

Day 48: mopeds

What bikes are to Denmark, and scooters are to France, mopeds are to
Morocco. Since cars and motorcycles aren't allowed in the medina,
everyone flies around way too close to pedestrians on mopeds.

Here two of them have crashed into one another and the croud is
gathering to break up the two men.

Day 47: gandora

Jon in his traditional Moroccan garb. We did some good cop / bad cop
negotiating to get a good deal on the scarf and gandora.

Day 47: cyber park

Today we took a little tour of the New City, just west of the walled
in old medina. What a contrast! Quite modern and really florishing.
We took a walk through the public olive and argan gardens where they
have installed a dozen or so free Internet access stations throughout
the park.

Day 46: what is that?

Just took a look at my own blog. Those posts are getting way too big. I'll try and trim them down in the future.

Here's a quick one. Hanging at one of the street vendors...

Any guesses what these were? Cat? Rabbit? Other?

Day 45: spices and street urchins

Today we wanted to relax a bit. We had petit dejourne in a cafe
overlooking the market place. Then we checked around for a more cost
effective place to stay. After wandering down a few back alleys and
stopping into a few riads, we found an only slightly less comfortable
place for 1/5th the price ($12 / night). Apparently being in the Lonely Planet guide
allows you to raise you rates.

Next we went for massages at spas called hammams. Mo went for the full
pull. Massage, savon noir scrub, bathing, the works. I just got the
massage. I had no idea how sore I was, I think sleeping on the ground
most of this trip has caught up with me.

After massages we tried to go Rock the Kasbah. Ok, 'Rock' might be an
overstatement. We tried to go walk the Kasbah where the royal palce is
located. On the way we bumped into a police officer directing traffic.
He told us that that part of town was closed after 3:00 during
Ramadan. So he just leaves his traffic duties to walk us about 5
minutes away into the Jewish Quarter to a spice vendor. Mo was excited
to go to see the spice vendor as it was one thing that shes been
looking forward to in Morocco. I was a little skeptical, not really
being in the market for paprika or saffron or any thing, but after
talking with the guy for 5 minutes, I was really glad we came in.
Really knowledgable guy, more like a pharmacist than a street vendor.
The had herbs and spices for every type of cooking and herbs and
spices for anything that ails you. Bronchitis, migraines,
aphrodisiacs, anything.

From the Jewish Quarter, we walked along the busy streets and
stumbled into a French hotel. Since it is a European hotel, we are
able to get a beer here unlike the restaurants in the Medina where
alcohol is strictly forbidden.

After a couple of pops, feeling really good about our day, we headed
back to the square where we had a slightly unpleasant expirience. Mo
was in the middle of making a good deal on some dried apricots, when
she was approached by yet another 14 year old girl offering henna
tattoo. Mo brushed her off but the girl was insistant. The girl
grabbed Mos hand and started drawing on it anyway dispite the protests
while saying "It's free. It's free" as if this was a free sample. The
girl finished the scribbles and Mo tried to tip the girl 10dh ($1) for
it but the girl was now demanding 250dh. Mo refused to pay and still
tried to give the girl the dollar and get away, but the girl was
making a scene now grabbing her arm and yelling "You pay me! You got
tattoo, now you pay me!". Took both of us to break her grip on Mo and
get away. Affraid that she would call someone or something, we called
it a night and headed back to our hotel. In the end, nothing came of
it, but put a bit of a damper on our day.

Tomorrow: nothing

The pic: Cumin, saffron, paprika, Moroccan curry, fish curry,
sandlewood...

Day 44: Marrakech

Today was our first full day in Morocco. Made it to our hotel with relative ease. A 17 room riad that has an open courtyard in the center, with a large tiled fountain in the center. Best of all only a block from Jemaa El Fna, where the Night Market is set up and the center of all the activity.

We spent the morning getting a flavor for the souks, the open markets that line all the narrow streets selling scarfs, spices, fruit, leather, just about everything. There are fellas trying everything they can to get you to come into their stall. Some are funny, some are pleasant, some are tennacious, and some are aggressive and will just grab you and lead you in. We noticed something interesting though. Your immediate reaction is to say no to everything that is offered to you, afterall who really wants to talk to a salesman. Even if you really are interested in looking at something in the store, your gut reaction is to walk away.

Spent the afternoon the hotels rooftop deck looking over the city and a bit of mint tea.

After the sun goes down, this market place really comes alive. All the food vendors come out, as well as the snake charmers, trained monkeys, story tellers, and everyone done fasting for Ramadan. We wandered a bit looking for a good vendor for dinner. Passed on the goats head and settled for tamer selection of some delicious perch, sardines, calamari, fish croquets. Since they frown on all alcohol here we washed it down with a Fanta.

We were warned that Ramadan might be a bad time to come here since a lot of places would be closed. We have not found this to be the case
since Jemaa El Fna is open and accessible during the day and downright
buzzing with activity at night.

Tomorrow: might take in some of the historical sites

The pic: The 12 century Koutoubia Mosque over looking Jemaa El Fna. The call to prayer 5 times a day is clearest from this mosque as it is
the closest to our hotel.

Getting from Andalucia Spain to Marrakesh Morroco

We had a difficult time finding on the internet the best way to get
from Andalucia Spain to Marrakesh Morroco. So, for those out there
that are considering such a trip, you may find this useful. If you are
not planning such a trip, you may find this extremely boring.

Starting at the Malaga Spain airport...

Portillo Bus line from Malaga airport to Marbella Spain bus terminal.
Note: There is a city bus that leaves often but takes twice as long to
get to Marbella. We waited a bit and took the direct bus.
(4.30€) (45 minutes) (11:15am)

Portillo Bus from Marbella Spain to Algeciras Spain. Note: We also
could have chosen to go to the bus station just outside Gibralta
called la Linea. But it's just as easy to catch a ferry from the city
across the harbor, Algeciras.
(6.71€) (1hour) (1:15pm)

Walk east down Calle San Bernardo from the Transporte Generales Comes,
Algeciras bus station towards the Puerto de Algeciras. Note: avoid
the guys telling you that you need buy your Ferry ticket from this
agent or that agent. They are paid by a travel agency. Just go right
to the ferry building to get your ticket. (0€) (10min) (3pm)

Ferry from Algrecias Spain to Tangier Morocco.
(37.00€) (2 hours) (5:30pm)

Taxi from the Tangier ferry building to the train station.
(5.00€. Found out later it should have been about 0.50€) (10
minutes) (7pm -2 hour timezone difference)

O.N.C.F. Train from Tangier to Marrakesh. Note: The train ticket
office did not take euros or credit card so get your dirham before you
get to the station if you can. Although there is an Atm at the
station, it was out of service when we got there.
Note 2: the overnight train was absolutely the way to go. Although the
train was at least 40 years old, it was clean and extremely
comfotable. We were rocked to sleep almost as soon as the train
started moving.
(350 dirham - about 20€) (11 hours) (9:05pm)

Taxi from Marrakesh train station to the Medina. Note: You might be
accosted by taxi drivers as you exit the train station offering to
take you to the Medina. First offer was 50 dh, but shopped around a
bit and got a shared cab for 20dh. (20 dirham) (5 minutes) (6am)

- jgt

Day 44: sunrise

Sunrise over the Morrocan desert.

Day 43: Midnight Express

After taking a car, two buses, a ferry, and a taxi, we are finally on
the midnight express. Actually, it's called the Marrakesh Express from
Tangiers and is a 40 year old sleeper train.

From everything we've read about Tangiers is a virtual cesspool that
you should plan on leaving as soon as you can. We have not found that to be the case. The locals are friendly and helpful. Yes the taxi
drivers that tried to get us in their cab as we exited the ferry
building were pushy, but when are taxi drivers not pushy. We dismissed
these fellas and found our own taxi, who incidentally we cound out over charged us by quite a bit but it still only cost us $10. That
being said, we did not go into the Medina where I'm sure we would be
dimissing false guides every few minutes.

Since we are in an Islamic city during during the holy month of
Ramadan, everyone is home fasting before 7pm. Apparently after 7, the
fast is broken and the city comes to life.

We got to hear one of the most amazing things we will probably never
get a chance to hear again. As we got arrived, broadcast over
loudspeakers from all the mosques was a distinct Arabic singing to announce the end of fasting and a call to prayer. It echoed across
the whole city and was absolutely incredible.

So, made it to the train station and hopped the first overnight to
Marrakesh.

Tomorrow: Souks

The pic: sorry the pic is so boring, but it's late and I don't have
much to work with. This is just a view down the hall of the old
sleeper car. The Rock of Gibralta pic was pretty good though, right?

Day 43: "I never thought I'd be on a boat"

First view of Africa, the shore between Cueta and Tangier.

Day 43: leaving Europe

A car to Malaga, a bus to Marbella, a bus to Algeciras and now on a
ferry to Tangier Morroco.

A pic of the Rock of Gibralta.

DY 42: bullfight cont.

The bull getting the best of the mattador in this one and the other
mattadors coming to his aid.

Day 42: the bullfight

one of the mattadors being charged by a bull.

Day 42: Mijas

We left Granada after two days of wandering through old cobbled
streets and ducking into shops. We headed south again out of the
Sierra Nevada region to the Costa del Sol. We stumbled upon a
fantastic little town high up in the mountains near Malaga called
Mijas. All the streets are cobbled single lane and all the houses cut
into the hills are bright white stone.

While here we had an experience you can't get in many parts of the
world. A bullfight. The 110 year old Plaza del Torro is set at the
highest point in the city and seats less than 1000 people.

I won't be able to accurately or effectively decribe the actual
bullfight itself. A bit of an emotional rollercoaster. It's an
artform that has been around for centuries and is steeped in tradition
and respect for the bulls. And yet, three bulls are stabbed to death
right before your eyes. Ask me when we see you next and i'll be able
to describe it in better detail in person.

Tomorrow: hopefully, Africa

The pic: one of the mattadors facing off with the bull, the town of
Mijas in the background.

Day 41: Granada ...

.... on the Patio del Toro.

Day 41: Granada

Don't really have any update for today. Like I said, the blog would
kinda slow down after France. Just me and Mo having a beer near
Palacio de la Madraza.

Day 40: tea in Granada

Mo loved this part. We turn the corner in the Old Quarter of Granada
and are hit with the aroma of a hundred kinds of tea in the open market.